Three Bonfire Hoodies // Sofiona Designs

 Happy October! It is my favorite time of the year for many reasons, including the cooler weather and changing fall colors! It also means I can wear all my favorite cozy cardigans and hoodies. I have a new favorite hoodie to share - the Bonfire Hoodie by Sofiona Designs. I might be wearing this all of the fall season because it is so comfortable!

Sofiona Designs actually has two separate patterns, the original girls Bonfire Hoodie and the women's Miss Bonfire Hoodie. It only made sense to sew both versions so my sisters could have a new hoodie too! I think they look so cute in their Bonfires!

One of my favorite things about this pattern is all the details! Yes, it does make it a fairly involved project and it is not a quick sew (especially if you decide to make three at once like me!) but the end result is so worth it. My 17 year old sister and I chose to have thumbhole cuffs on our hoodies, but my littlest sister wanted normal cuffs. I love how you can totally customize the details to make the hoodie of your dreams. 

Other options this pattern includes are an accent strip on the front and back bodice, a hidden front pocket, and drawstrings. The hood and bodice are lined as well. 

This pattern was released about a year ago and I knew it was a pattern I had to have right away. I even bought fabric from Raspberry Creek Fabrics right away too. The fabric and patterns sat untouched in my sewing room until these last few weeks when I decided the hoodies must be made immediately! 

I think all the little details really add to the quality of the Bonfire Hoodie. The eyelets/drawstrings took more time, but I am so happy with what they add to the overall finished look. I just used strips of leftover fabric to make the drawstrings because that way they matched the hoodies and I didn't have to buy anything else. 

Funny story, I was upset when I was cutting these out because it took all afternoon and I almost didn't have enough fabric. I had to play some serious pattern cutting jenga and even then it was close! I didn't quite have fabric long enough for the drawstrings and hood facings but I had enough smaller pieces. My husband is a welder and he suggested I "weld" smaller pieces together to make a piece big enough. I was being stubborn and didn't want to do that, but in the end that is what I did and it worked out just fine! 

We love the huge hidden pockets! 

The fabric is all from my favorite fabric shop, Raspberry Creek Fabrics. I thought I had ordered all French Terry but I ordered the floral in cotton lyrca by mistake. The pattern calls for heavier weight fabrics, which is why I wanted to use French Terry, but the cotton lyrca works just fine too. I love the pop of floral with the darker solid colors. 

I made the girls Bonfire for my littlest sister and the Miss Bonfire for my other sister and I. The Miss Bonfire Hoodie comes with cup sizes for the bodice and there is the option to print the pattern in layers, which makes blending sizes super easy. The size chart said I should have made a size 8, A cup bodice but I ended up using the size 8, B cup bodice because I felt the finished measurements were closer to what would work for me. I also blended out at the waist and hips for both my sister and I. For my littlest sister I used one size for the width and another size for the length because she is so tall. I love being able to sew my own clothes so I can make them fit how I want. 

Here's a detail shot of the thumbhole cuffs. I love how the thumbholes are hidden when not putting your thumb through. The construction is really unique compared to other patterns I've made but I think I prefer it this way! 

And now for some outtakes! My sisters are so silly and we had so much fun taking these pictures at our local apple orchard!

~Elizabeth

Uptown Downtown Dress

I've been in the sewing mood lately, and I decided I needed wanted a new dress! I've had this navy blue and white polka dot French Terry from my favorite fabric company for a long time intending to make a dress and I'm glad I finally made it happen!

I usually never skip pockets in dresses, and this dress was going to have pockets. However, when it was finished, the pockets weren't laying flat so I removed them. I think a thinner, more flowy fabric would be better suited for pockets. 

This is the Uptown Downtown Dress by Stay + Stitch Patterns. The company recently updated the women's pattern, which I only realized after I had cut and sewn my dress. The sizes and variations were updated. The version I have comes with knee length or maxi length options. I wanted a dress past my knees so I added length where the pattern indicated at the waist. However, next time I would probably add length at the hem. 

The only change I had to make to the pattern was having to cut the back in two pieces instead of on the fold. I didn't have quite enough fabric to cut the back on the fold, but it still worked out!

This is my first time making a dress for myself in French Terry fabric. It is so comfortable and cozy to wear! Perfect for these not quite yet spring weather days. It may look like spring in these photos, but the wind was so cold!

I'm also wearing my own HANDMADE shoes! I used a kit from A Happy Stitch to make my own Espadrilles. I made them almost a year ago and they are the perfect shoes for spring and summer. They are comfortable too and it is so fun to say that I made my shoes!  

The pattern has instructions for a knit binding around the neckline, but I prefer a neckband. It was an easy change to make! I just measure the neckline and multiplied by 0.8 to get my neckband length and it worked out great. 

Knit dresses are one of my favorite things to wear because you can look so put together with minimal effort! It's like secret pajamas! 

 ~Elizabeth

The Chai Dress // Itch to Stitch Designs

I am back to blogging with my new favorite dress! This is the Chai Shirt and Dress pattern from Itch to Stitch Designs. I made a wearable muslin of the shirt version at the beginning of the summer, but I've been wanting to make the shirt version ever since I first found the pattern last year!

This dress has been in my mind for three years. I was fortunate enough to win a gift certificate to the Cloth Pocket three years ago and used it to buy this beautiful chambray fabric. I knew I wanted to make a shirt dress with it, but it took me until last year to find the perfect pattern. I've been wanting to make the Chai pattern all summer but kept putting it off with other projects and procrastination. 

I finally cut out my pattern pieces at the beginning of this month and sewed it a few days ago! The cutting part took me the longest (as it always does) and it only took me three days to sew it. So, after three years, I finally have my chambray shirt dress! 

I made a few changes to this pattern before cutting it out. My measurements put me in a size 4 for bust, a size 6 for waist, and a size 8 for hips. Based on the finished measurements, I decided I needed to grade out for the hips, but I decided to use the size 4 for my waist. It is a perfect fit and I am happy with my changes! 

I also lengthened the skirt by 6 inches because I am taller than the pattern is drafted for and I like my skirts to hit below the knee. 

The dress is definitely more fitted than other shirt dresses I have made, but I love the style. I think it would look great with a circle skirt too!

The Chai has gathers at the bust instead of darts and I love the detail it adds! The dress also has huge inseam pockets, which I love! I rarely make a skirt or dress without pockets anymore!

I can see this dress being perfect almost year round. It will be perfect for spring and summer as is and I can layer it as we head into fall. It was a chilly morning when I took these pictures, but with tights and boots I was comfortable! If it was colder, I would add a cardigan as well. 

The only changes I made during construction were to interface both the upper collar and the under collar. The pattern only calls to interface the under collar and the collar stands, but I wanted to interface the upper collar too. I think it makes it more crisp and helps it stand up more. 

The buttonholes are never my favorite part to sew, but my machine was cooperating with me and I didn't have to seam rip any of my buttonholes! They are not perfect, but I am happy with how they turned out. 

~Elizabeth

The Chai Shirt // Itch to Stitch Designs

This must be the year for woven, button up shirts! This one is a new-to-me pattern though and perfect for summer. The Chai Shirt and Dress pattern released last August, and I wanted to make it in the dress version as soon as I saw it. I ordered the pattern right away and since I had the perfect chambray fabric for the dress, I decided to make a muslin (something I never do because I'm a lazy sewist). I used this cheap woven gingham and cut out my muslin, but it sat in my sewing room nearly forgotten for almost a year!

I decided this past weekend that I was going to sew up the muslin, so that I can make my dress to wear this summer. However, instead of sewing up just a quick muslin to check the fit, I made the entire pattern. I'm glad I did because it is a great fit and completely wearable! I also will be more familiar with the pattern the next time I make it and hopefully that means less mistakes! 

The Chai Shirt and Dress is such a classic style and exactly what I was looking for in a shirt dress! The pattern includes cup sizes, which was something new for me. It has the options for dress or shirt length, a classic collar with collar stand, options for sleeveless or short sleeves, a button placket, and an a-line skirt. 

The fabric is originally from fabric.com from quite a few years ago. It is not the highest quality of fabric, but it worked for checking the fit! I actually really like the colors and I happened to have red buttons in my stash, and I think it makes for a great Fourth of July themed outfit. 

This might be one of the best fitting woven shirts I have made. The back fits really well! 

I didn't make any changes to this version, and since I like how it fits I plan on not changing anything for my dress version. I will probably add length to the skirt, but that is something I always have to do with dress patterns. 

My button placement could use some work, but buttonholes are not my favorite thing to do, so I am happy with how they turned out. I didn't have to seam rip any buttonholes this time, which is unusual!

I think this shirt will be a great addition to my summer wardrobe. However, this black skirt is the only thing I have to match, so I might have to change that!

My sister was my photographer this time and I think she did a great job!

~Elizabeth

Another Cheyenne Tunic

I seem to be sewing everything in doubles this year! This is my second Cheyenne and I hadn't planned on making it until spring or summer. However, Grace of Maker Mountain Fabrics recently hosted a sewalong over on instagram and facebook. I decided to join in the fun and I'm so glad I did! I love my new shirt! 

Check out that matching plaid! Plaid matching can be tedious work, but I really enjoy it because the end result is worth it. Unfortunately, my sleeve cuffs didn't match, but progress, not perfection. 

My first Cheyenne tunic was the button down version, so for this one I decided to do the half placket, no collar version with 3/4 length sleeves. I really like the length of the sleeves when rolled up and I will probably wear it this way most of the time.

I cut the yoke, front placket, and pocket on the bias. I like the interest it adds and it also means I didn't have to match the plaid!

The fabric is a cotton shirting from Cali Fabrics. It has my favorite color in it - turquoise - which is why I bought it. It is nice and light and will be perfect for wearing this spring and summer. It's not quite warm enough to wear outside yet!

I sewed this Cheyenne in a straight size medium. Last time I had graded out to the hips at the large. I think the medium works well. It is somewhat loose fitting, but that is how the pattern was intended.

The sewalong forced me to slow down and really enjoy the sewing process! I like to sew fast and finish projects as quickly as I can. Sometimes, that's okay, but for projects like this you really should take your time and enjoy the process from cutting to finish!

~Elizabeth

Cheyenne Tunic

I am so excited to finally have finished my flannel plaid Cheyenne tunic! This is a project that I've been wanting to make for a long time now. I bought the fabric from Raspberry Creek Fabrics almost 2 years ago, planning for a Cheyenne tunic and I finally made it a reality!

I made a size medium but graded out to a large in the hips for the back piece. The Cheyenne is intended to be a looser fit. I think the fit is pretty spot on! The sleeves are long enough without any adjustments - usually sleeves are too short, but not this time!

I have made a button down shirt before as well as several shirt dresses, so the skills required to make this pattern were not a complete mystery to me. However, each time I make this style I find I learn something new or improve on previously learned skills.

I have been sewing a lot of knits recently and since those are usually really quick projects I had to take the time and slow down with the Cheyenne tunic. In the end, it is a very professionally finished garment with all french seams.

There is a sew along for this pattern on the Hey June Handmade blog. I referred to the sew along more often than the pattern after I made a mistake with the back yoke. I am a super visual learner, so looking at pictures is often more helpful than reading words. The pattern is well written, but as a visual learner, it was helpful for me to refer to both the pattern and the sew along. The sew along was most helpful to me for the back yoke, the collar and collar stand, and the tower plackets.

The fabric is a Robert Kaufman Mammoth Flannel and it is so soft and comfortable! It was 10 degrees when I took these pictures and besides my hands, I was pretty warm! I know I will be wearing it a lot since winter doesn't seem to be going away anytime soon!

The hardest part of making this pattern was cutting out the fabric. I tried to match the plaids as best I could, but some of the plaid wasn't completely straight on the fabric, which made it a difficult task. I chose to do the back yoke, front plackets, and pocket on the bias. It adds interest and eliminates the need for matching those pieces!

I learned several things while sewing the Cheyenne tunic:

1) Don't sew if you are tired. I decided to work on this one afternoon after I had worked a night shift. I was only running on about 5 hours of sleep and needless to say I made plenty of mistakes that could've been avoided had I waited to sew.

2) Mark your right side well! This is especially true if you are working with a fabric that looks identical on both sides. I did not mark the fabric well and ended up sewing one of the sleeves on backwards. I didn't realize it until I had completely sewn the french seam!

3) Relating to #2, french seams (especially on flannel) are not fun to seam rip.

I did not want to roll the sleeves up in 10 degree weather, so I attempted to take a picture in my poorly lit apartment. I will probably only wear it like this indoors for now, but I like to have the option!

This was my first time sewing a tower placket and I am really pleased with how they turned out! This is another area of the pattern where I referenced the sew along from the Hey June blog. I was also pleasantly surprised that the plaids matched up on this sleeve - totally a happy accident! I was not so lucky with the other sleeve, but that's okay. 

I am really happy with my new Cheyenne tunic! It might be the best fitting button down shirt I've ever owned!

~Elizabeth